• Do not put quilts stuffed with cotton batting in the washing machine—the stuffing will get bunched up and clumpy.
• Hand-wash in a large laundry tub or bathtub.  Use ½ cup vinegar to help dissolve all the soap suds.  Do not put in the dryer—line dry outside, preferably in the sun.
• If line drying isn’t an option, take the comforter to a dry cleaner to be washed and dried instead.

• If a down-filled comforter or quilt is relatively new or in good condition, it should be safe in the washing machine.
• Line drying is best, but down comforters can be safely dried in your dryer.  Use the lowest heat setting or no heat tumble dry.  Throw in a few clean tennis balls or clean shoes to help fluff it and prevent clumping.  This may take three hours or more to dry completely.
• Make sure your comforter is completely dry before using or storing—mildew can grow inside damp down and ruin it.
• Do not over-clean your down comforter—the natural oils in the material may be stripped over time.
• If your down comforter is old or is wearing out, take it to a dry cleaner instead.
• Polyester fiber or poly/cotton blend.
• This kind of comforter/quilt can be safely cleaned at home, unless it is very old or in delicate condition.  Follow instructions on the care label for machine washing.
• If care label is gone, let comforter soak in the washer for several hours before running through the wash cycle.
• Add ½ cup vinegar to the rinse cycle to ensure all soap residue is dissolved.

• Check the care label—if it is not marked washable, do not put it in your washer.  It may be vulnerable to shrinkage or distortion.  Take it to a dry cleaner.
• If it is washable, follow the instructions on the label.

• If a quilt is made from many different fabrics, wash it using a method that would be safe for the most delicate fabric in the mix.  If you aren’t sure, or if the quilt is old and fragile, take it to a dry cleaner.  GreenEarth solution is safe for antique and heirloom fabrics, but machine washing usually isn’t.
• If a quilt can be washed in water, but is starting to wear out, wash it in your bathtub with gentle liquid laundry detergent like Ivory Snow.  Make sure the detergent has been completely mixed before adding the quilt.  Let the quilt soak for several hours.
• Drain the tub and rinse in cool water with ½ cup vinegar to help dissolve all soap residue.
• Line dry in the sun.  If the quilt is sturdy, it can go in your dryer.  Use the lowest heat setting, or no-heat tumble dry.  Throw in a few clean tennis balls or clean shoes to fluff it and prevent clumping.

• Do not attempt to wipe or rub away soot—the oily particles will be ground into the fabric and stain permanently. Take the garment outside and shake it as best as possible. If the item cannot be shaken (like a couch), avoid touching it until a professional can take a look at it.
• Larger, sturdier items (drapes, blankets, couches) can be gently vacuumed by holding the nozzle ¼ inch above the fabric. Do not use brush attachments or upright vacuuming as it could grind the soot back in.

• Do not use perfumed sprays or disinfectants to remove odour. They will only mask odour for a short while, and may interact chemically with smoke odour to create a new unpleasant smell.
• Hang damaged items outside, preferably in sunlight, for 4-8 hours to air out. If weather does not permit, hang items in a location that was not damaged by fire. Soot remains in the air of the home or building where the fire happened, and will redeposit on clothing.
• If airing out does not eliminate odour, contact professional fire restorers / dry cleaners and ask about “counteractants”. These chemicals, applied based on what material was burned in the fire, can help to break up smoke and odour particles in the fabric.

• Machine-washable clothing that was in a closed closet or drawer during a fire can sometimes be restored at home. Only attempt cleaning items with very mild damage; take dry clean only and heavily soiled items to a dry cleaner.
• Do not attempt to wash fabrics at home before they have been deodourized / aired out. If you cannot get rid of the odour, take the item to a dry cleaner or risk setting the smoke smell into the fabric permanently.
• For machine-washable items (cottons and polyesters), run through five regular wash cycles with a strong detergent, like Era, and warm water.
• Adding ½ cup white vinegar can help to eliminate odour. No difference may be seen after the first two washes, but repeated washing has been shown to significantly improve smoke damaged clothing.
• Do not put items in a dryer in between washes—this will set in stains and smoke odour. Hang outside or another location that was not damaged by fire.
• Some embellishments—even on washable items—may be permanently damaged and need replacing. Buttons, beaded trims, belt buckles, clasps etc may not show any change after multiple washings. GreenEarth solution is safe and gentle on these kinds of details, so take them to a cleaner to see if they can be restored.

• Do not put quilts stuffed with cotton batting in the washing machine – the stuffing will get bunched up and clumpy.
• Hand wash in a large laundry tub or bathtub. Use ½ cup vinegar to help dissolve all of the soap suds. Do not put in the dryer – line dry outside, preferably in the sun.
• If line drying isn’t an option, take the comforter to a dry cleaner to be washed and dried instead.

• If garments are still wet, lay in the sun to dry. Dry heat and light help to kill mold. If your item is labeled dry clean only, take it to a cleaner after it is dry.
• If your item is washable, fill washing machine with warm water and regular amount of detergent. Add ½ cup Borax and let mildewed garments soak in this solution for up to four hours.
• Run regular wash cycle.
• If garments still show signs of mildew, do not put in dryer. Apply a mixture of lemon juice and salt to mildew spots and dry in sunlight.
• Machine wash again.

• Vacuum drapes weekly with the brush attachment to prevent dust build up. Use a gentle, up and down sweeping motion.
• Because you see them every day, it is easy to not notice gradual fading and soiling of curtains and drapes. They may look fine, but if you haven’t had them professionally cleaned in a while, you will see the difference. Fabrics cleaned with the GreenEarth process actually come out looking brighter than before.
• Drapes and curtains generally have care labels. If it is labeled machine-washable, go ahead, but if it doesn’t fit comfortably in your washer, take it to a professional for a thorough cleaning that won’t leave it wrinkled or linty like your washing machine will.
• If your windows develop condensation on the inside, check the back of your drapes regularly for any signs of mildew.

• Vacuum regularly to remove dust and dirt.
• If a spill happens, blot—do not rub—stain with a paper or cloth towel. If the stain has solid or dried matter in it, remove as best you can with a dull knife.
• Take the rug to a dry cleaner to safely remove the stain—even if it is a very old rug. If that isn’t an option, mix up a solution of two cups lukewarm water, ¼ cup white vinegar, and liquid dish soap.
• Most Oriental rugs are acid-resistant, so vinegar should remove the dirt but not the dye. Test for colorfastness by blotting an inconspicuous area with the solution on a white towel. Be careful—if colour from the rug comes off on the towel, do not use this solution. Take the rug to the dry cleaner.
• If you want to clean it yourself, place an old towel under the stained area in case the water soaks through.
• Sponge solution on stained area, moving in the direction of the nap.
• Rinse sponge and repeat with clean water.
• If stain remains, take the rug to a dry cleaner.

• Furs should be kept in “cold storage” during the summer, as heat and humidity can damage them. Many furriers maintain cold storage facilities with strict temperature, light, and humidity controls. You can ship your coat to them and have it sent back when you want it, and some even offer pickup and delivery services. Find out if the place you purchased your fur from has this option.
• Do not put your fur in a home freezer as a substitute for cold storage. The optimal temperature and humidity levels vary depending on what kind of pelts your garment is made from.
• When not in use, hang your fur in a cool, dark closet. Do not store in a plastic garment bag or cedar chest.
• Hang on wide hangers to help fur keep its shape.
• Keep your fur away from direct heat (such as a radiator or air vent).

• If your car seats are made from synthetic material, invest in seat covers made from cotton or wool. Synthetic fibers will wear out and matt your fur.

• If your fur gets wet, shake it out to dry. Do not use heat.

• Some of North America’s largest furriers use GreenEarth in their cleaning process. Always take furs and garments with fur trim to professional furriers, who are experts in a variety of cleaning methods and will use their discretion on how a particular item should be cleaned.
• If any staining or spilling occurs, contact a professional furrier right away. Never try to treat the stain yourself. If there is no staining, furs should be cleaned about once a year.
• Keep hairsprays, perfumes, hand lotions, etc. away from fur.

• Fabric softener: adding ½ cup white vinegar to the rinse cycle will soften clothes. For pillows and blankets, add two cups to the rinse cycle to keep them fluffy.
• Lint and pet hair prevention: adding ½ cup white vinegar to the rinse cycle will prevent lint build up on clothing and reduce the amount of pet hair left clinging after the wash.
• Static cling: add ½ cup white vinegar to the rinse cycle to keep clothes static-free.
• Hand wash: If you have trouble giving delicate items a thorough rinse when you wash them by hand, add one to two tablespoons of vinegar to the rinse water help dissolve detergent residue.
• Stain removal: diluted vinegar can be used on most machine-washable fabrics to remove stains. See our “Stain Removal” section for information on specific stains.
• Colour refresher: Soak faded clothes in a solution of one cup vinegar per one gallon warm water. Rinse in cold water and see the difference.

• Bleeding: adding ½ cup salt to your regular wash cycle can help prevent colours from running or bleeding.
• Yellowing: For white cotton or linen items, a one hour soak in boiling water with one tablespoon salt and ¼ cup baking soda will remove the yellow tinge. For nylon, soaking in warm water with Epsom salt and rinsing in clear water will bring the white back out.
• Ironing: To clean a sticky iron, set it on low and run it over a piece of paper with salt spilled on it. And to keep the iron from sticking to clothes in the future, add a pinch of salt to the laundry starch.

• Odour eliminator: Adding ½ cup baking soda to the rinse cycle will neutralize odours and leave your laundry smelling fresh without fragrance.
• Brightener: To give your regular liquid laundry detergent a stain-fighting boost, add ½ cup baking soda to your regular wash cycle. Baking soda helps neutralize the pH in your wash water, improving the way detergent interacts with your clothes. Your whites will come out whiter and colours brighter.
• Stain removal: A paste of baking soda and water can be rubbed into tough stains like blood, wine, perspiration, and vomit to kill the odour and help remove the stain. See our “Stain Removal” section for details on specific stains.

• Bleach: Lemon juice is an all-natural bleaching agent. Pour lemon juice on stains (test for colorfastness in a hidden spot first) and hang in the sun to dry, then machine wash as usual. For an allover white brightener, replace the bleach in your wash cycle with one cup of lemon juice.
• Soak solution: For very soiled or perpetually dingy items (not just clothes—think towels, sheets, tablecloths), soak overnight in hot water with ½ cup lemon juice. Machine wash as usual.

Save the environment—and your wallet—with a few easy changes to your laundry routine.

• Wash clothes in cold or warm water instead of hot. According to the California Energy Commission, 85-90% of the energy used by washing machines goes to heat the water. And washing in cold gets your clothes just as clean as hot. Tide Coldwater, the first detergent specially formulated for energy-saving, has the same stain-fighting power as the original.
• Pre-treat stains and presoak very soiled items so you don’t have to put them through the washer twice.
• Hang dry laundry to reduce your electric dryer use. If weather prevents you from line-drying outside, buy a drying rack to use indoors. Or buy a tension rod and hang garments on plastic hangers in a doorway or alcove.
• Don’t over-dry clothes—it wears your clothes out faster and uses more energy. Use the auto-dry feature if you have one, or set the timer for shorter intervals and check clothes to see if they’re done.
• Pull clothes out of the dryer while still damp and hang them up. They will dry with fewer wrinkles, reducing the amount of ironing you normally do.
• Clean the lint filter in your dryer after every use—it improves air circulation so your dryer works more efficiently and quickly.

• The agitation of a regular washing machine, even on the gentle cycle, can be too harsh for delicate and aging fabrics. If an item has monetary or sentimental value, don’t take any chances washing it at home.
• Some vintage clothing collectors and retailers warn against dry cleaning, but GreenEarth is different. Traditional dry cleaning uses harsh chemicals that can be hard on fabric, but GreenEarth is safe and gentle, perfect for antique and vintage garments.
• If an accidental spill occurs, or if you bought an antique item with a stain on it, you can try spot cleaning it. See our “Stain Removal” section for instructions on how to treat almost any kind of stain. For information on antique bags and purses, see our “Handbags and Purses” section.

• Garments should always be cleaned before being put away. Even if they look clean, some invisible stains, such as perspiration, take time to interact with the fabric and will appear as brown splotches later. Stop stains before they happen by having your vintage items dry cleaned before storing them.
• Do not store items in plastic garment bags. They need to be able to breath, and the plastic may begin to break down and interact with the material of the garment.
• Wrap in acid-free tissue paper or 100% white cotton bed sheets before folding them. This prevents damage to delicate fibers along the fold lines.
• Place folded items in acid-free boxes, a cedar chest, or well-ventilated plastic boxes. Do not store in a cedar chest without wrapping in cotton or tissue—the oils that carry the cedar scent can damage fabric over time.
• Only hang sturdy items like coats, and use wide padded hangers. More fragile items can be damaged by their own weight, so fold dresses, suit jackets, and other items you would usually hang if they are going to be in storage for a while.
• Store all items in a cool (not cold), dark place that is not subject to extreme humidity or temperature changes. Basements, attics, and garages are not the best places for antique items.

• The agitation of a regular washing machine, even on the gentle cycle, can be too harsh for delicate and aging fabrics. If an item has monetary or sentimental value, don’t take any chances washing it at home.
• Some vintage clothing collectors and retailers warn against dry cleaning, but GreenEarth is different. Traditional dry cleaning uses harsh chemicals that can be hard on fabric, but GreenEarth is safe and gentle, perfect for antique and vintage garments.
• If an accidental spill occurs, or if you bought an antique item with a stain on it, you can try spot cleaning it. See our “Stain Removal” section for instructions on how to treat almost any kind of stain. For information on antique bags and purses, see our “Handbags and Purses” section.

• Garments should always be cleaned before being put away. Even if they look clean, some invisible stains, such as perspiration, take time to interact with the fabric and will appear as brown splotches later. Stop stains before they happen by having your vintage items dry cleaned before storing them.
• Do not store items in plastic garment bags. They need to be able to breath, and the plastic may begin to break down and interact with the material of the garment.
• Wrap in acid-free tissue paper or 100% white cotton bed sheets before folding them. This prevents damage to delicate fibers along the fold lines.
• Place folded items in acid-free boxes, a cedar chest, or well-ventilated plastic boxes. Do not store in a cedar chest without wrapping in cotton or tissue—the oils that carry the cedar scent can damage fabric over time.
• Only hang sturdy items like coats, and use wide padded hangers. More fragile items can be damaged by their own weight, so fold dresses, suit jackets, and other items you would usually hang if they are going to be in storage for a while.
• Store all items in a cool (not cold), dark place that is not subject to extreme humidity or temperature changes. Basements, attics, and garages are not the best places for antique items.

• When changing out of your clothes, be sure to let suits, coats and shoes air out for at least 30 minutes before you store them in your closet. Hang them up on a clothes rack or on a hanger outside your closet before putting them away. Do not throw them over a chair as this can create new wrinkles.
• It’s also important to rotate your sweaters and jackets like you do your shoes, to give them a chance to breathe and regain their shape.
• Turn off the closet light and don’t leave garments near the window. Sunlight can fade the colours on your clothes just like it does drapes. Dyes are sensitive to prolonged sunlight or even to a light left on in a closet.
• In summer, be careful with lotions and sunscreen as it can fade or stain your clothes.
• Spray perfume and hairspray on before you get dressed. The alcohol in the spray can fade, discolour or stain clothes.
• Always clean your clothes before storing them for the season. Untreated food and beverage stains can attract insects!
• Never hang wet or damp clothes in your closet. This can attract mildew.
• Never store your clothes in plastic bags. It can trap in humidity that attracts mildew. Use breathable cotton sheets or bags.
• Brush off any salt before cleaning clothes or taking them to the dry cleaner. Salt can cause damage during cleaning. If you have come into contact with salt (e.g. pant cuffs brushing up against winter street salt), wipe with cold water and air dry. Always point salt treated areas out to your dry cleaner. Shoes are especially prone to salt damage during winter. When you come home, wipe off any salt residue with a cold damp cloth.

Most leather specialty shops sell leather protectors—sprays that guard your garment from stains, water, and skin oil damage.

• Leather conditioner keeps leather soft and pliable, and helps it repel water. Condition at least four times a year, or more if your leather is regularly exposed to rain or sun.
• Avoid spraying hairspray, perfume, or cologne while wearing your leather.

• Always hang leather garments on padded hangers to help retain their shape.
• Never store leather in plastic or non-breathable covers —it could cause leather to dry out and lose its integrity. Instead, cover leather items with an old sheet for long-term storage.
• Keep leather out of direct sunlight and heat to prevent fading. Avoid very humid or dry environments.

• If your leather gets wet, blot dry with a towel. Hang up and dry at room temperature naturally away from heat sources.
• Use leather conditioner after garment has dried. Natural drying sucks moisture out of leather and may cause it to become brittle or crack over time.

• If stain is fresh, simply wipe it off with a soft, damp cloth. Do not rub.
• If stain is oily, sprinkle baking soda on it, let sit overnight to absorb. Wipe off with a damp cloth.
• Do not use regular fabric stain removers on leather—they are likely to damage it.
• When using specialty leather cleaner, always test in an inconspicuous area first. Dab a little cleaner on and blot with a soft white cloth. If no colour from the garment bleeds onto the cloth, the cleaner is safe to use.
• Take your leather garment to a cleaner using GreenEarth—it’s safe on leather and suede and can get the stain out.

Window treatments are real dust collectors. The easiest way to get rid of allergens in drapes and curtains is to simply have them dry cleaned. See our “Drapes and Rugs” section for detailed information.

For mini-blinds, gentle vacuuming with the brush attachment or wiping with a damp rag or Swiffer should remove the dust.

Using feather dusters or plain dust rags moves—rather than removes—dust around your home. Use a damp cloth or a product specially designed for maximum dust pick up, such as Swiffer.

Don’t wait until you can see the dust to wipe it off. That coffee table you use every day may look clean, but give it a thorough dusting with a cleaning cloth and see how much you pick up.

To kill allergens on furniture, try a specialty fabric spray. Febreze now makes both allergen-reducing and antimicrobial formulas that are safe to use on most upholstery (except leather).

For clothing, take care of dirty, wet items right away—don’t give mildew a chance to develop. If it does, take it to a dry cleaner to be cleaned. Washing and drying at home can set mildew stains.

Nearly 100,000 dust mites can live in one square yard of carpet, along with all the other allergens that accumulate on the floor. Weekly vacuuming is essential to keeping carpets clean and allergen-free. Under furniture and in crevices against the wall are especially dust-heavy, so do a really thorough cleaning once a month. Move furniture around to get places you usually can’t reach, and use the nozzle attachment to get into corners.

In addition to vacuuming, have area rugs and carpets dry cleaned regularly to kill mites and get rid of their droppings, as well as other fabric pollutants.

A mini-vacuum is a good tool to get the dust out of upholstery. Or use the nozzle attachment of an upright vacuum, making sure to get in between and under cushions.

• Use two pillowcases, or invest in a high-quality pillow protector—a plain, zippered pillowcase to keep dirt and dust out. Then your pillows won’t need to be washed as often.
• Memory foam can be damaged by water. Waterproof pillow protectors are available to keep them clean and safe.
• Fluff pillows every day to get out dust and keep the stuffing from clumping
• Air them outside or by an open window monthly to get rid of odours

• Always check for holes or ripped seams first, and repair them before attempting to clean.
• Down and feather pillows can be dry cleaned, and will retain their softness and fluffiness.
• If you put down or feather pillows in the washing machine, do two at a time or one with a few towels to balance the load.
• Use cold water and the delicate cycle, with a gentle detergent like Ivory Snow.
• If you hand wash, do the same, but use ½ cup vinegar in your rinse water to make sure all the soap dissolves away.
• To dry, put pillows in on lowest heat setting or no-heat tumble dry. Add a few clean tennis balls or shoes to fluff them in the drier. This may take three hours or more.
• Make sure down and feather pillows are completely dry before using or storing. Mildew can grow inside and ruin them.
• Do not over-clean down or feather pillows. The natural oils in the material will be stripped over time.

• If your pillow is made of “memory foam,” do not wash—because of its unique composition, it may take weeks to dry and mildew can grow inside. Contact the manufacturer for specific instructions.
• If your pillow is made of a different kind of foam, it may be hand washed.
• Do not machine wash foam pillows. Take to a dry cleaner to get out dirt and oils that have sunk deep inside the foam.
• To clean just the surface of the pillow, hand wash in cold water with a gentle detergent like Ivory Snow.
• Press gently with towels to remove excess water. Do not put foam pillows in the drier or wring them out. Line dry outside, moving frequently to help keep the shape. Or, lay flat on top of a drying rack.

• Kapok is made from Ceiba tree seed coverings. It cannot be washed. Lay pillows out in the sun for several hours to freshen them.

To keep dust mites out of your bed, purchase specially made “dust mite covers” for pillows and mattresses. While you can’t get rid of mites entirely, these zippered protectors provide a barrier for dust mites so they can’t get inside and make themselves at home where you can’t get them out. Wash the covers weekly to cleanse them of mite droppings.

It’s important to have your sheets and pillows cleaned regularly to reduce allergens. See our “Pillows” section for info on how to safely clean all different kinds of bedding.

Mildew is a form of mold, a fungus that can produce mild allergic reactions or severe health problems, depending on the extent of exposure. Symptoms include throat and nose irritation, red or watery eyes, sneezing, and headaches. Mildew feeds on organic matter (this includes cotton, leather, and silk garments, as well as food stains on garments) and grows in damp, warm places. It can develop on wet garments whether they are clean or dirty. Even the small amount of moisture from perspiration can be enough to grow mildew if the garment is not aired out and washed.

To prevent mildew, make sure garments are completely dry before putting them away. Do not leave wet garments sitting in a pile. Mildew has an unpleasant, musty smell and appears as black dots on clothing. It is best to take very mildewed garments to a cleaner. More information on removing mildew stains can be found in our section on Water Damage.

• When using shoe cleaners and polishes, always work in a well-ventilated area so that fumes aren’t an issue. Put newspaper down or work outside to avoid staining things around you.
• Remove laces before cleaning and polishing, and wash them with a load of laundry.
• To remove odour from any kind of shoe, sprinkle baking soda inside (make sure shoes are dry first). Let shoes air out overnight. Shake them out in the morning, using a tissue or cloth to wipe out any leftover residue.
• Try not to wear the same pair every day. Alternating between two pairs gives them a chance to air out and they will wear out less quickly.
• When buying new shoes, ask the salesperson about protective sprays or creams for the specific kind of shoes you are getting. It is easier to prevent stains and soiling than to remove them.

• Remove dirt and grime with a leather cleaner intended for smooth leather shoes, or saddle soap. Use a soft cloth to clean with.
• Let shoes air dry completely.
• Conditioning your shoes protects them from drying and cracking. To keep them soft and smooth, rub in a commercial shoe conditioner after each cleaning.
• To polish leather shoes, first decide what kind of polish you want to use. Commercial shoe polishes, which can be purchased at shoe stores or online, come in liquid, cream, and paste form. Or try an at-home alternative such as walnut oil, olive oil, or the inside of a banana peel.
• If you use traditional shoe polish, read and follow the instructions carefully. Some commercial polishes contain toxic chemicals and can cause unpleasant side effects when used. Wear gloves when using, and dispose of polish rags safely.
• Always test polish or oil in a small spot first.
• If your polish does not have its own applicator (or if using an at-home alternative) wrap two fingers in a soft cloth and dip it in the polish.
• Rub polish or oil into shoe in small, circular motions.
• Make sure the entire shoe has been covered, but do not over-polish.
• When shoes are dry, buff with a clean soft cloth. Hold it taut with both hands and slide it quickly back and forth over the toe of the shoe, then fold cloth and use one hand to rub the sides.

• Get a special suede cleaning brush to clean with. Use short strokes in the same direction—not back and forth or circular—to buff away scuff marks and raise the nap.
• If the brush isn’t getting the dirt out, try a pencil eraser.
• To remove water stains, use a small, soft paintbrush to moisten the entire outside of the shoe. Blot excess water with a towel or sponge and air dry overnight with shoe trees inside. Use the suede brush to restore the nap when completely dry.
• Give shoes a light coat of protecting spray after each cleaning.

Athletic shoes undergo a lot of wear and tear, but regular cleanings can help them last longer. Most are constructed from many different materials, so use an all-purpose shoe cleaner or one that is recommended by the manufacturer. If you don’t have any on hand, mix up a solution of a mild detergent, like Ivory Snow, and warm water.

• Use an old toothbrush or towel to rub off dried dirt or other debris on the shoes.
• Using an old toothbrush, scrub the shoes with the cleaner or soap solution in small circular motions.
• For leather areas, follow directions for smooth leather shoes.
• When shoes are clean and dry, cover with a light coat of a waterproofing spray.

• If they are crusty and covered in dirt, chip off as much as possible so you don’t end up giving them a mud bath instead of a wash. If they are really soiled, hose them off outside.
• Spot-treat any stains with a solution of warm water and gentle detergent, such as Ivory Snow. Use an old toothbrush to scrub stains away.
• Remove laces, inserts, and any other removable parts before washing. If the laces are very dirty, throw them in with a regular load of clothes.
• Wash on delicate with a gentle detergent. Use cold water—hot could melt the rubber and/or adhesive in the shoes.
• Throw in a couple bath towels to balance the load.
• If the sneakers are white, add ½ cup vinegar or lemon juice in with the regular amount of detergent to help restore their brightness. Do not use bleach—it may react with the canvas and turn it yellow.
• Air dry in the sun or tumble dry on low heat.

• Chip off any dried or crusty material on the shoes.
• Remove laces, inserts, and any other removable parts.
• Mix a solution of gentle detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and warm water. Use a terrycloth towel dipped in this solution to clean the smooth rubber parts and soles of the shoes.
• Using the same solution, go over every inch of each shoe with an old toothbrush.
• Blot away water and detergent as you go with another clean, dry towel.
• Use a damp towel to rinse the canvas.
• If the shoes are white, dip the toothbrush in white vinegar and lemon juice and scrub it again. Do not use bleach—it may react with the canvas and turn yellow.
• Air dry in the sun or tumble dry on low heat.

• Always read care label instructions before attempting to remove the stain.
• Scrape off dried or crusty matter with a dull knife before treating the stain.
• If the stain persists after treating and laundering, do not put the garment in the dryer—heat will permanently set the stain.
• For colored garments, test stain-removal technique on a hidden area first to make sure it won’t bleach or fade the fabric.
• Read instructions on stain-remover packaging—make sure it is safe to use on the fabric.
• If attempts to remove the stain do not work, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

Keep these items in your laundry room so you’re ready to treat any kind of stain, any time it happens. You probably already have most of them in your kitchen!

• Gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow
• Liquid detergent with bleach alternative, such as Tide with Bleach Alternative
• Grease-fighting liquid dish soap, such as Dawn
• Baking soda
• Lemon juice
• White vinegar
• Glycerin
• Salt
• Dull knife or spoon
• Old towels
• Eyedropper
• Plastic bucket
• Beverages

For cotton and polyester: If stain is fresh, apply a liquid detergent with bleach alternative directly to the stain. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric. Do not use bar soap on beer stains, it will make them harder to remove. If stain is old, rinse in cold water. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent with colour safe bleach or bleach alternative per one gallon of water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric.

For washable silk and wool: Mix one tablespoon of gentle liquid laundry detergent (such as Ivory Snow) with one cup of lukewarm water. Using a white towel, dab stain with solution. With an eyedropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Using an eyedropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. Rinse. If milk and/or sugar contributed to the stain, then apply small amount of liquid laundry detergent directly to stain. Soak the garment for up to 30 minutes in a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of lukewarm water in a plastic bucket. Machine wash according to care instructions. Air dry.

For washable silk and wool: Apply a small amount of a gentle detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and water directly to stain. Rub until suds form, then rinse. Using an eyedropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. Rinse. If milk and/or sugar contributed to the stain, apply a commercial oil solvent (such as Carbona Stain Devil) and air dry.

For cotton and polyester: If stain is still damp, cover it with salt. Then stretch the fabric over a bowl and carefully pour boiling water over the stain from about one foot above it. If stain has dried, rinse garment in cold water. Soak the garment for up to 30 minutes in a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Machine wash in warm water. Air dry.

For washable silk and wool: Gently sponge on a mild laundry detergent. Using an eyedropper, apply a solution of one white vinegar to two parts water to the stain. Rinse with cold water.

For cotton and polyester: Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric.

For washable silk and wool: Mix one tablespoon of gentle liquid laundry detergent (such as Ivory Snow) with one cup of lukewarm water. Using a white towel, dab stain with solution. With an eyedropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: If stain is fresh, apply a liquid detergent with bleach alternative directly to the stain. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric. Do not use bar soap on soda stains, it will make them harder to remove. If stain is old, rinse in cold water. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent with colour safe bleach or bleach alternative per one gallon of water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric.

For washable silk and wool: Mix one tablespoon of gentle liquid laundry detergent (such as Ivory Snow) with one cup of lukewarm water. Using a white towel, dab stain with solution. With an eyedropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off dried residue with a dull knife. Apply glycerin to stain and let sit 10 minutes. Rinse with cool water. Apply a commercial stain remover that is safe for the fabric and let sit 15 minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Scrape off dried residue with a dull knife. Apply glycerin to stain and let sit 10 minutes. Rinse with cool water. Treat with a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and a small amount of water. Rub gently to form suds, then flush with cool water.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with liquid laundry detergent. Let sit for five minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain persists, place garment stain side down on a towel. Apply a commercial grease-remover, such as Carbona Stain Devil, to the back of stain. Residue will bleed through onto towel. Air dry and machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Treat with a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and let sit for five minutes. Apply a small amount of water and rub gently to form suds. Flush with cool water. If stain persists, apply a small amount of liquid dish soap, such as Dawn. Let sit five minutes and flush with cool water again. If stain is still present, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with a commercial stain remover that is safe for the fabric, or a small amount of liquid laundry detergent. Using an eye dropper, apply a half-vinegar, half-water solution to bleach any remaining stain. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Same as cotton and polyester.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with liquid laundry detergent. Let sit for five minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain persists, place garment stain side down on a towel. Apply a commercial grease-remover, such as Carbona Stain Devil, to the back of stain. Residue will bleed through onto towel. Air dry and machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Treat with a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and let sit for five minutes. Apply a small amount of water and rub gently to form suds. Flush with cool water. If stain persists, apply a small amount of liquid dish soap, such as Dawn. Let sit five minutes and flush with cool water again. If stain is still present, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with liquid laundry detergent. Let sit for 30 minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain remains, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water with an eye dropper. Mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for 30 minutes. Machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Using an eye dropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. Apply a commercial stain remover that is safe for the fabric and let sit 15 minutes. Flush spot with cool water. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: If stain is fresh, pour on talcum powder or cornstarch to soak up as much oil as possible. Brush or shake off excess. Place garment stain side down onto a towel. Apply a stain remover designed for grease and oil, such as Carbona Stain Devil, according to package instructions. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Same as cotton and polyester, but take item to a dry cleaner if stain persists.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with liquid laundry detergent. Let sit five minutes. Machine wash with color-safe bleach in warmest water safe for fabric. Repeat if stain persists.

For washable silk and wool: Pre-treat stain with a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow. Let sit five minutes. Flush stain with cool water. If stain persists, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water with an eye dropper. Flush with water again. If stain is still visible, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off any dried food with a dull knife. Rinse garment in cold water to dilute the stain. Mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for 30 minutes. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric. Repeat if necessary.

For washable silk and wool: Scrape off any dried food with a dull knife. Apply a small amount of gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, to stain and let sit five minutes. Apply a small amount of water and rub gently to form suds. Flush with cool water. If stain persists, take the garment to a professional.

For cotton and polyester: Mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for 30 minutes. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric. Air dry. If stain persists, apply a liquid rust remover according to package instructions. Rinse in a solution of three tablespoons baking soda per one quart of water. Machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Pre-treat stain with a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow. Let sit five minutes. Flush stain with cool water. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off any hardened lumps with a dull knife. For washable items, pre-treat stain with a solution of one tablespoon of liquid laundry detergent per two cups of water. Let sit for 20 minutes, then rinse. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Use a solution of gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and water to remove residue. Take item to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric.

For washable silk and wool: Mix one tablespoon of gentle liquid laundry detergent (such as Ivory Snow) with one cup of lukewarm water. Using a white towel, dab stain with solution. With an eye dropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off any dry crusted matter with a dull knife. Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent with bleach alternative per one gallon of cold water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash with bleach alternative according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Scrape off any dry crusted matter with a dull knife. Mix one tablespoon of gentle liquid laundry detergent (such as Ivory Snow) with one cup of cold water. Using a white towel, dab stain with solution. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

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For cotton and polyester: Rinse garment in cold water to dilute the stain. Stretch fabric over a bowl and carefully pour hot or boiling water over the stain from a height of about one foot. If stain persists, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water with an eye dropper. Let sit for 10 minutes. Treat with a commercial stain remover that is safe for the fabric. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Flush stain with cool water. Apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water with an eye dropper. Then apply a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and a small amount of water. Rub until suds form. Flush with water again to remove detergent. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off any excess with a dull knife. Apply liquid detergent with bleach alternative to the stain. Let sit 10-30 minutes depending on severity of stain. Rinse with cool water. Treat with a commercial stain remover designed for greasy stains, such as Carbona Stain Devil. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Scrape off any excess with a dull knife. Mix one tablespoon of gentle liquid laundry detergent (such as Ivory Snow) with one cup of cold water. Using a white towel, dab stain with solution. Flush with cool water.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with grease-fighting liquid dish soap, such as Dawn. Let sit for 10 minutes. Machine wash with one cup baking soda along with regular detergent. If stain persists, place garment stain side down on a towel. Apply a grease remover, such as Carbona Stain Devil, to the back of the stain. Grease will bleed through onto towel. Machine wash as usual.

For washable silk and wool: Apply a small amount of grease-fighting liquid dish soap, such as Dawn. Let sit for 10 minutes. Blot with damp towel to remove residue. Apply a grease-remover, such as Carbona Stain Devil, according to package instructions.

For cotton and polyester: Apply ice or put garment in the freezer to harden the gum. Using a dull knife, carefully scrape off as much as possible. Place garment stain side down on a towel and apply a specialty remover designed for gum, such as Carbona Stain Devil. If stain remover is not available, apply a dab of creamy peanut butter to the stain. Rinse and machine wash according to garment care label. Repeat steps as necessary. If colored residue (but no gum or peanut butter) remains, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water to stained area. Rinse and machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Apply ice or put garment in the freezer to harden the gum. Using a dull knife, carefully scrape off as much as possible. Place garment stain side down on a towel and apply a specialty remover designed for gum, such as Carbona Stain Devil. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric.

For washable silk and wool: Mix one tablespoon of gentle liquid laundry detergent (such as Ivory Snow) with one cup of lukewarm water. Using a white towel, dab stain with solution. With an eye dropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: If stain is fresh, pour on talcum powder or cornstarch to soak up as much oil as possible. Brush or shake off excess. Place garment stain side down onto a towel. Apply a stain remover designed for grease and oil, such as Carbona Stain Devil, according to package instructions. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Same as cotton and polyester, but take garment to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: With a dull knife, scrape off any dried residue. Pre-treat stain with liquid laundry detergent. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain persists, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: With a dull knife, scrape off any dried residue. Place the garment stain side down on a towel. Apply a commercial stain remover that is safe for the fabric to the back of the stain. If stain persists, take the garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with liquid laundry detergent. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain persists, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. Rinse and machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Pre-treat stain with a commercial stain remover that is safe for the fabric. Let sit 15 minutes. Flush stain with cold water. Using an eye dropper, apply a solution of one part vinegar to two parts water. Flush with cold water again.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off dried matter with a dull knife or soft bristle brush. Apply liquid laundry detergent. Rub with a little bit of water to form suds. Rinse with cool water. Apply a half vinegar, half water mixture. Machine wash according to garment care instructions.

For washable silk and wool: Scrape off dried matter with a dull knife or soft bristle brush. Mix one tablespoon of liquid dish soap, such as Dawn, and one cup water. Use an eye dropper to apply the mixture to the stained area. Flush with cold water.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off encrusted clay with a dull knife. Apply a liquid dish soap, such as Dawn, to the stain and let it sit overnight. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain persists, apply colour safe bleach or rubbing alcohol to the stained area. Machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Scrape off encrusted clay with a dull knife. Flush stain with cool water. Rub glycerin into the stain and let sit for 2-8 hours. Flush with cool water again. If stain remains, take garment to a professional.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off large globs with a dull knife. Rub in glycerin and let sit until remaining sap has softened. Place garment stain side down on a towel and tap to loosen sap. Rinse. If stain persists, apply commercial stain remover appropriate for the fabric. Machine wash.

For washable silk and wool: Same as cotton and polyester, but take garment to a dry cleaner if stain remains after treating.

For cotton and polyester: Soak garment in cool saltwater for a few hours. Rinse thoroughly. Mix one tablespoon of ammonia with ½ cup water. Apply solution to stain. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain remains, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Rinse and machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Dab cold salt water onto stain. Flush with plain cold water. Use an eye dropper to apply a half-vinegar, half-water solution. Flush with cold water again. If stain remains, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Flush the stain with cold water. Pre-treat spot with an enzyme treatment, such as Era Plus. Let sit for 30 minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Flush the stain with cold water. Use an eye dropper to apply a half-vinegar, half-water solution. Flush with cold water again. If stain remains, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Brush off flakes and residue with a soft bristle brush or dry terrycloth towel. Pre-treat with liquid detergent and let sit for 30 minutes. Machine wash with double the recommended amount of detergent in the hottest water safe for the fabric. Air dry and repeat if necessary.

For washable silk and wool: Brush off flakes and residue with a soft bristle brush or dry terrycloth towel. Apply a half-vinegar half-water solution with an eye dropper. Flush with cool water. If stain persists, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Rinse thoroughly with cold water. In a plastic bucket, mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent with colour safe bleach or bleach alternative per one gallon of water. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain remains, apply a half-vinegar half-water solution. Rinse and machine wash again.

For washable silk and wool: Flush stained area with cold water. Treat with a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and let sit 10 minutes. Apply water and rub until suds form. Flush with cold water again. Use an eye dropper to apply a half-vinegar, half-water solution. Flush with cold water again. If stain remains, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Stretch fabric over a bowl. Mix one cup of household ammonia with one gallon warm water and pour over stain. If stain remains, let sit for 30 minutes – four hours. Rinse in warm running water. Machine wash in warm water. Air dry and repeat steps if necessary. This stain may be permanent.

For washable silk and wool: Take garment to a dry cleaner; this stain may be permanent.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off any excess with a dull knife. Place garment stain side down on a towel. Apply commercial stain remover specialized for oils, such as Carbona Stain Devil. Lipstick will bleed through onto towel. If stain remains, pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent. Rub in with water until suds form. Rinse thoroughly. Use an eye dropper to apply a half-vinegar, half-water solution. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Same as for cotton and polyester, but air dry and take garment to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: Apply makeup remover recommended by the manufacturer. If stain persists, dampen spot and rub with a bar of soap. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Same as for cotton and polyester, but air dry and take garment to a professional if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent. Machine wash according to garment care label. If stain persists, apply a half-vinegar half-water solution. Mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash again in hottest water safe for fabric.

For washable silk and wool: Using an eye dropper, apply a half-vinegar half-water solution to the stain. Let sit 10 minutes. Flush with water. Repeat as necessary. Take garment to a dry cleaner if stain persists.

For cotton and polyester: Apply spot remover to the stain according to package instructions. Pre-treat with liquid dish soap, such as Dawn. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Same as cotton and polyester, but air dry and take garment to a dry cleaner if stain persists.

For cotton and polyester: Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. Mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent with bleach alternative per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash with bleach alternative and one cup of baking soda in warm water.

For washable silk and wool: Flush stain with cool water. Treat with a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and let sit for 10 minutes. Apply small amount of water and rub until suds form. Flush with water again. Take garment to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: Rinse in cold water to dilute the stain. Mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent with bleach alternative per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Soak garment for up to 30 minutes. Machine wash with bleach alternative and one cup of baking soda in warm water.

For washable silk and wool: Flush stain with cool water. Treat with gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and let sit for 10 minutes. Apply small amount of water and rub until suds form. Flush with water again. Take garment to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: Apply glycerin to stain and let sit 10 minutes, then treat with gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and water. Rub until suds form, then rinse. Machine wash in warm water.

For washable silk and wool: Same as cotton and polyester, but do not rinse—dab water until suds are gone. Take to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: Scrape off hardened wax with a dull knife. Stretch fabric over a bowl. Carefully pour boiling or very hot water over the stain from a height of about one foot. Air dry. If stain remains, place garment stain side down on an old towel. Place another towel on top. Gently press a warm—not hot—iron over the towel. Wax residue should melt and transfer to bottom towel.

For washable silk and wool: Scrape off hardened wax with a dull knife. Place garment stain side down on an old towel. Place another towel on top. Gently press a warm—not hot—iron over the towel. Wax residue should melt and transfer to bottom towel.

For cotton and polyester: Shake or gently vacuum garment to remove loose particles and chalk dust. Place garment stain side down on an old towel or paper towels. Gently dab rubbing alcohol on the back of the stain. Chalk residue should transfer onto bottom towel. If stain persists, pre-treat with liquid dish soap (such as Dawn) and machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Shake or gently vacuum garment to remove loose particles and chalk dust. Apply a gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow, and let sit 10 minutes. Apply small amount of water and rub until suds form. Flush with cool water and air dry. If stain persists, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Place the garment stain side down on a towel. Spray the back of the stain with WD-40. After five minutes, flip over and spray front of stain. Rinse in cold water. Rub liquid dish soap, such as Dawn, into stain and rinse again. If stain persists, apply a commercial stain-remover appropriate for the fabric. Machine wash with ½ cup baking soda along with usual detergent.

For washable silk and wool: Do not attempt to clean at home. Take to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Do not put items stained with gasoline or other flammable materials into a washing machine. Check washing machine warning labels (usually located inside the lid) for instructions specific for your washing machine. If stain is still wet, cover with baking soda to absorb moisture and odour. Brush off excess. Rinse the garment in cold water to dilute the stain. Rub liquid dish soap, such as Dawn, into the stain. Mix a solution of ½ cup liquid laundry detergent with bleach alternative per one gallon of water in a plastic bucket. Add one cup baking soda to neutralize odours. Soak garment for 30 minutes. Discard solution appropriately, as you would gasoline. Rinse garment again in warm water. If stain and/or odour remains, hand wash in warm water with liquid laundry detergent and baking soda.

For washable silk and wool: If stain is still wet, cover with baking soda to absorb moisture and odour. Brush off excess. Flush stain with cold water. Apply liquid dish soap, such as Dawn, and let sit for 10 minutes. Flush with water again. If stain does not begin to fade, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Using a dull knife, scrape off dried glue. Use glycerin to loosen up remaining residue and scrape off. Rub liquid dish soap, such as Dawn, into any remaining stain and machine wash.

For washable silk and wool: Same as for cotton and polyester, but take to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: If stain is still wet, cover with baking soda to soak up moisture. Brush off. Rub in liquid dish soap, such as Dawn. Machine wash using half the recommended measurement of detergent, and half liquid dish soap (such as Dawn). Repeat steps as necessary. Add more baking soda to neutralize any odour.

For washable silk and wool: If stain is still wet, cover with baking soda to soak up moisture. Brush off. Rub in liquid dish soap such as Dawn. Let sit 10 minutes. Flush with cool water. Take garment to a professional if stain persists.

For cotton and polyester: Make a paste of lemon juice and salt. Be careful—this may cause discoloration on some fabrics. Cover stain with paste and let sit 15-30 minutes. Rinse. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Using an eye dropper, apply a half-vinegar half-water solution to the stain. Let sit 10 minutes. Flush with water. Take garment to a dry cleaner to completely remove stain.

For cotton and polyester: Apply turpentine and blot with towel to absorb residue. Flush with water. Rub in liquid dish soap, such as Dawn, and let sit 10 minutes. Machine wash according to garment care label. Repeat as necessary.

For washable silk and wool: Apply small amount of liquid dish soap to the stain. Let sit 10-15 minutes. Scrape off paint flakes and soap with dull knife or fingernail. Flush with water. If stain does not begin to fade, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Gently apply laundry detergent and warm water to stained area with a sponge. When paint has softened, scrape off with a dull knife. Rinse and repeat as necessary, then machine wash according to garment label.

For washable silk and wool: Same as for washables, but do not machine wash—air dry. If stain persists, take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Pre-treat stain with liquid laundry detergent. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool: Apply small amount of gentle liquid laundry detergent, such as Ivory Snow. Let sit 10-15 minutes. Apply small amount of water and run gently until suds form. Flush area with cool water. Take to a dry cleaner if stain remains.

For cotton and polyester: Rub off as much as possible with fingers. Apply small amount of paint thinner to stain. Let sit 30 minutes. Pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent. Machine wash according to garment care label.

For washable silk and wool items: Rub off as much as possible with fingers and take garment to a dry cleaner.

For cotton and polyester: Shake off excess soot—do not rub. Pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent with bleach alternative. Machine wash in warmest water safe for fabric with water conditioner and detergent with bleach alternative.

For washable silk and wool: Do not attempt to clean at home – take garment to a dry cleaner.

The bamboo plant does not need pesticides or fertilizers, requires very little water, and can grow up to several feet per day. Bamboo also “breathes” heavily—a bamboo grove releases 35% more oxygen than other trees. Bamboo fabric is more absorbent than cotton, quick-drying, and has naturally occurring anti-microbial properties that help stop odour.

Factories that manufacture bamboo fibers use a process similar to that of rayon—using the caustic chemicals sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide. “Greener” methods of making bamboo clothing are being developed, but the chemical method still has a smaller environmental impact than conventionally grown cotton and petroleum-based nylon and polyester fabrics.

Cotton farming in the United States uses only about 3% of the farmland, but 25% of the pesticides. To put it in perspective, it takes 1/3 of a pound of chemicals to produce one t-shirt. Organic cotton is cotton that has been grown without chemicals on land that has been chemical-free for at least three years. It must be certified organic by a third party—in the U.S., the Department of Agriculture regulates this process. Cotton that is grown without chemicals, but on land that has not yet been chemical free for a full three years, is referred to as transitional cotton.

Organic cotton garments cost more than conventional ones—up to 50% more. Some manufacturers use blended fibers with 10-25% organic cotton to help keep the cost of the garments down while still supporting sustainability. Organically grown cotton feels, looks, and can be washed just like regular cotton.

• Turn your sweater inside out. This protects the outside surface fibers from pulling.
• Fill the sink with water (follow care instructions regarding temperature), add a small amount of a good quality detergent and mix it in slightly being careful to avoid creating foam suds. DO NOT use chlorine bleach on wool because it breaks down the fiber.
• Gently push the sweater down into water and then let it soak for 20 minutes; do not knead or agitate. Wool fibers are especially likely to permanently stretch if you over work the fibers; time is all you need to allow the water and detergent to penetrate and remove dirt and oils.
• Rinse with tap water until no bubbles are left, being careful to hold and support the sweater from underneath as you lift it, rather than pulling it up, to prevent stretching. Repeat process. Let the sweater drain for a few minutes and remove gently lay to lay flat on a towel.
• Roll the towel, and then press the rolled towel, being careful to avoid wringing or rubbing the wet sweater. If excess water remains, carefully blot with a second towel being careful not to rub.
• Lay face up on a dry towel and block or shape the sweater gently back into its original shape: pull together the waist and wrist ribbing, button cardigan buttons closed, roll collars into position, and straighten the sleeves.
• Let dry overnight. In the morning, turn it over and block the other side; let dry.

Check garment care labels or any instructions that came with your gown and follow the instructions for best results. Most will recommend dry cleaning or professional wet-cleaning. Unlike traditional dry cleaning, which uses perchloroethylene, GreenEarth solvent will not damage the intricate beadwork, sequins, lace and embroidery commonly found on wedding gowns, and won’t dissolve glue that attaches embellishments to gowns. It won’t shrink your gown or leave it with a funky odour. Cleaning with GreenEarth is like giving your gown a mineral bath—it will come out softer and brighter, with all special trims and details intact.

Always have your gown cleaned before putting it in storage. Check your gown for any visible stains, including graying of the hem where it touched the ground, and point them out to your dry cleaner. Stains from seemingly clear substances like body oils, perspiration, white wine and sugary substances may not appear for some time. Once these have a chance to oxidize, they may show up as light brown or yellow splotches that are difficult to remove. Have your gown cleaned soon after your wedding to prevent these kinds of surprises.

After your gown is cleaned, it is important to store in a manner that will preserve it safely. First decide if you want store your gown hanging or folded. If your gown is strapless, has very thin straps, or is very heavy, folding may be a better choice because hanging will put a lot of stress on the fabric holding it up. However, if your dress is very thin or of especially delicate material (such as antique lace or silk), you should hang it to eliminate the risk of permanent creasing from folding.

It is best to have your gown stored and preserved by professionals at Veribest Cleaners. If you choose to take care of your gown yourself, here are some tips on how to store it safely.

• Plastic garment bags are a definite don’t-they give off undetectable fumes that can severely weaken and damage the garment fibers.
• It is essential that the gown be allowed to breathe, so that mold and mildew don’t have a chance to grow.
• Purchase a special preservation bag, available at many specialty shops, or use a plain white cotton sheet that has been thoroughly washed.
• Cut a hole in the sheet so there is a place for the hanger to go through.
• Use a very wide padded hanger to help the gown keep its shape.
• If you don’t have a padded hanger, make your own by wrapping a white cotton sheet around a sturdy hanger.
• Hang your gown in a dry, dark place in the main living area of your home, not the attic, basement, or garage. Textiles are very sensitive to changes in heat and humidity.
• Take your gown out every two years or so to let it air out and inspect it to be sure nothing has happened to it in storage.

• Use only an acid-free box with acid-free tissue paper. Regular cardboard and tissue break down over time, damaging fabrics.
• Select a box that is large enough. Cramming your gown into a too-small box or folding it too many times can cause permanent creasing and weaken the fabric.
• Wrap your gown entirely in acid-free tissue before folding. Ensure that none of the fabric touches itself.
• Line box with tissue before placing the gown inside.
• Do not seal the box—many wedding preservation services permanently seal boxes for storage in order to keep air and dust out. But if you want to prevent permanent creases, or if you just want to take your gown out and admire it occasionally, make sure the box lid is removable.
• Store your boxed gown in a dry, dark place in the main living area of your home, not the attic, basement, or garage. Textiles are very sensitive to changes in heat and humidity. Condensation can also develop in sealed boxes, creating mildew and mold growth. Make sure your gown has room to breathe.
• Take your gown out of storage every two years or so and air it out.
• Re-fold your gown differently than it was folded before so that permanent creases do not develop.